Wire Crochet Necklace with Crystal pendant

If you know how to crochet, and you like to make jewelry, then this is a fabulous technique to incorporate into your jewelry-making repertoire.  The technique is a simple chain stitch with beads added.  If you do not know how do a chain stitch there are directions below.

When choosing your beads you will want to pick beads that are similar in size.  I used all 6mm beads and I would not go much bigger than that.  Also, long tube beads do not work very well.  If you want to have a multi-strand necklace use more wire and add additional beads.

Materials:

One spool of silver ming 28 gauge wire

Jewelery Designer Glass Beads Spectra Multi 6mm -40 for a single strand choker, 20 for single strand bracelet. ( 100 for multi-strand necklace and 50 for a multi-strand bracelet.)

Crochet hook, size G.

Wire cutters and needle-nose pliers

Findings:

Jill MacKay Collection Sterling Plated Magnet Clasp

Genevieve Gail Novelty Crystal Dangle

Silver Jump Rings

Directions to make crochet necklace

1.    String your beads onto the wire, leaving it attached to the spool. Push them along down the wire toward the spool.

   

   Basic Slip Knot

   
   

2.   Form a slip-knot with your wire. 
Now, put your crochet hook through that slip knot, and tighten, while leaving a little space for movement.

3.     
 Chain three. *** Chain Stitch***Take the end of your wire that’s still attached to the spool, and wrap it over your hook. Wrap from the back of the hook to the front.  Pull it through the slip knot.

Add a second bead and continue chain stitch.

4.   Slide a bead up along the wire, all the way to the hook.  Reach hook in front of the bead, and wrap the wire over it as in a chain stitch. Catch the wire in your hook, and pull it through. Continue until no loose beads remain.

5.  Finish your strand with three more chain stitches.  Cut the wire free of the spool, leaving about a 3″ tail of wire at both ends. 

6.  Take the loose tail of wire and wrap it through that end loop a few times to anchor your stitching. Cut the loose end of the wire close to that loop. Repeat for other end.

7.    Attach your jump rings clasp and finding to complete your necklace.

8.  Take the loose tail of wire and wrap it through that end loop a few times to anchor your stitching. Cut the loose end of the wire close to that loop. Repeat for other end.

9.   Attach your jump rings clasp and finding to complete your necklace.

That is, until several months ago, when I attended a workshop, and one of the techniques I learned was – you guessed it – how to use alcohol inks.  All of a sudden, a whole new world was opened up to me!  Alcohol inks will work on pretty much any non-porous surface, dry quickly, blend easily, and clean up easily with a little blending solution.  Don’t like what you’ve created?  Swipe some blending solution over what you’ve done, and you have a clean slate!  They can also be used on porous surfaces, though are less easily “erased.”  A light bulb went on in my head, as I realized the many applications and ways I could use them…

• Only have white/cream buttons, and need one to match your project?  No problem – alcohol ink to the rescue!
• Need blingage to coordinate with a layout?  Just buy clear or white all the time, and color with alcohol inks!
• Want to colorize clear acrylic or glass?  Alcohol inks!
• Want to create your own gorgeous papers?  Alcohol inks on glossy cardstock!
• Need to adjust the color of fabric or paper flowers to fit your project?  Try alcohol inks!
• Want to color something detailed?  There are tools made specially for painting with inks!

On top of being SO versatile, a little goes a LONG way when it comes to alcohol inks – so they are very cost effective.  Just a couple drops will color a lot of area.

Stay tuned for a quick and easy holiday project using alcohol inks!

Editors Note: Read more about alcohol inks in a previous post on the blog.

Disclosure.

You’ll need some craft wire- I like to use 18 gauge wire, some diagonal wire cutters, round nose pliers, and flat nose pliers.

Let’s just start with the simple technique. Cut a length of wire about 6 inches to practice on. using your round nose pliers, “grab” the wire at the very end, using the tip of the pliers.

Then, carefully rotate your wrist to bend the wire into a single loop.

Now you have to change pliers. Switching to the flat nose pliers, grasp the wire in the jaws of the pliers and slowly begin to coil. Continue wrapping the wire and rotating the coil until it’s gone around 3 times.

Use the pliers to hold the coil, and use your finger or thumb to wrap it tightly against itself.

When you've wrapped as much as you can, re-grasp the coil in the pliers jaws and keep going.

Pretty, right?

Now you can use this idea to make earrings, bookmarks, fan pulls, etc- let your imagination run wild! Tomorrow I’ll show you how to make a bookmark using this spiral technique! Stay tuned….

Disclosure

Materials needed:

• Old jeans.
• Spray White Gesso
• Canvas frame – or other (see step 2 suggestions).
• Staple gun (I used packing tape to stretch the material for my own project, but that is because I want to remove the material after I’m finished painting on it and place it onto another surface later to make a collage of painted and unpainted images — will share).
  

STEPS TO CREATE YOUR OWN CANVAS FROM BLUE JEANS:

1. Cut up your blue jeans. You will be left with long, wide strips (cut out the stitched seams). Depending on the size of the jeans, you should be able to cover multiple small standard frame sizes: ranging from 5″x7″ to 8″x10″ (you can even go smaller if you wish, of course). Be sure to leave plenty of excess material so you have enough to wrap around your frame.
2. Choose your frame on which to stretch your jeans. You could use unassembled canvas frames, or a scrap piece of flat wood. You could even use an old picture frame you don’t plan to use for anything else (will need to be wood-based so it can take the staples).
3. Stretch your jeans. If stretching canvas over an open area like a canvas frame, you will need to pull the material taught (like a drum), but not so taught that the material rips. Be logical when it comes to stretching the material. Attach the canvas to the back of the frame, one side at a time. When you complete the first side, pull the material taught and attach the side at the opposite end. If you’re all done and not happy with the tension of the material, just take the staples out and try again. When you’re definitely finished and happy, trim off any excess material, leaving at least 1/4″ excess past the staples.
4. Gesso your jeans! Spray your gesso!  Since we are using blue jeans, you will need at least two coats of gesso to get a nice white surface on which to paint. Let one layer dry before applying the other. Repeat until you have a nice white, opaque surface.
5. PAINT AWAY! You now have a surface on which to paint that will feel just as good as painting on real canvas! Have fun!

The Mini Bowdabra is one of my favorite bow-making tools.  I have been using both the  Mini Bowdabra and the original Bowdabra for several years to create bows for seasonal themed crafts, wedding bows, hair bows, and kid crafts.   

When purchasing the Mini Bowdabra I would recommend purchasing the Bowdabra Bow Wire.  The Bowdabra Bow Wire is a great product to hold your bow together tightly without having to sew it or use hot glue.  I personally “heart” Bowdabra Bow Wire.  It is so easy to use, it holds the bow together awesome, but still allows you to adjust your loops, and fluff your bow.  The other great thing about the Bowdabra Bow Wire is that it easily curls and holds its shape!

For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Mini Bowdabra I have provided step-by-step instructions on how to make a bow using the Mini Bowdabra and Bowdabra Bow Wire.

Begin by removing both the Mini Bowdabra and the Mini Bowdabra Wand from its packaging.

Next cut a 24” piece of Bowdabra Bow Wire and fold it in half.

Place the Bowdabra Bow Wire into the center of the towers and fold it under the Mini Bowdabra so that it doesn’t come loose.

If you want your bow to have tails, cut some with straight edges, angled edges, or dovetailed edges.  I seal the ends of my ribbon by running the very tips of them through a lighter quickly.  However, clear nail polish or fray blocker works, as well.

To begin making the loops of your bow, place the end of ribbon into the center of the Mini Bowdabra towers.  The towers are spring-loaded and hold your ribbon easily in place for you.

Fold your ribbon over, form a loop, and press it into the Mini Bowdabra.

Make several loops before cutting away your ribbon.  To make your next colored loops begin the same way, insert the end of the ribbon into the center of the Mini Bowdabra Tower, fold and press ribbon into the Mini Bowdabra to make several loops.

Add smaller loops to the top of the bow for a great finished look.

Using the Mini Bowdabra Wand scrunch the bow down.

Next, take Bowdabra Bow Wire and thread the two ends through the center loop that was formed when you folded the wire in half.

Pull the Bowdabra Bow Wire tightly.

Remove the bow from the Mini Bowdabra, pull the Bowdabra Wire around to the back twist it, and then knot it in place.  Fluff and form the loops of the bow by pulling and twisting them into place.

(Optional) Bring the wire back to the front and attach at button or other embellishment.

Attach you bow onto a Grapevine Star from ConsumerCrafts.com!

If you’re looking for a great project using bows, check out the “4th of July Wreath!”

Consumer Crafts is now also carrying the Bowdabra Hair Bow Tool and Ruler.   The ruler fits easily over a Mini Bowdabra.  The Hair Bow Tool and Ruler kit comes with the Hair Bow Ruler to measure bows and loops easily, Bowdabra Bow Wire to hold bow together, and interactive software to make 70 different hair bows.  The software includes helpful hints, frequently asked questions, a ribbon length chart, finishing tips, and step-by-step pictures instructions for make a total of 70 different hair bows including the pinwheel bow, the boutique bow, loopy bow, cheerleader bows, stacked bows, pet bows, and the hard-to- make baby bows.

Disclosure

Editor’s Note: We are having so much fun with Wedding Week that we decided to to another! This week, though, we are featuring all things BLING! We’re starting off with this great article on how to get the best results from your Darice Hot-Fix Crystal Setter. Enjoy!

Rhinestone Hot Fix Setter

I am working on a few craft projects that just need some extra glam, sparkle, bling, with a splash of shimmery
goodness.  I have been intrigued by the Darice® Rhinestone Setter and couldn’t wait to try it out.  My expectations: super glam, super easy.
Before I even began using my Darice® Rhinestone Setter I checked out Lisa’s Review of it.  Lisa uses the Rhinestone Setter on a scrapbooking craft and gives a great overview of the product.  She raves about the variety of tips options, the long cord, the handy stand, and the ability to spice up your craft with some lots of bling.  Yes, yes, and more yes!  After reading her review I opened the Rhinestone Setter package and started to nod my head in agreement; different tip sizes for different gem sizes, the long cord rocks, the stand is cool, and bling, bling, and more bling is right at my finger tips.

However, when I first started using my Rhinestone Setter I was immediately frustrated. I couldn’t get it to pick up a gem to save my life.  What did I do wrong? I was using the right size tip for the size of the hot fix rhinestones; rhinestones were 4 mm tip was 4 mm.  In frustration, I started placing the rhinestones on small piece of cardboard, placing the Rhinestone Setter on top of the gem, and then flipping the cardboard over.   When I wanted to adhere the rhinestone on my fabric I would slowly tilt the Rhinestone Setter down and with a weaving needle slowly position the rhinestone on to my work.  I was not happy and I couldn’t believe it was suppose to be this difficult.

The process was laborious but my craft project was coming out beautiful, then without paying attention I picked a gem up by the wrong end glue side-up.  I used a weaving needle to take the gem off and was left with a dark burnt spot at the end of my Rhinestone Setter 4 mm tip.  After that like magic it all of a sudden started working the way it was suppose to, I picked up a rhinestone waited 5 seconds and then pressed it down onto my fabric.  No cardboard square needed to get the gem on, no needle to position the gem.  It was working. I started flying through my project, I loved this thing, and it was amazing, bling, bling, and more bling.

To test my little hypothesis: That a little of the hot fix adhesive on the end of the tip really made it easier to work with.  I waited until the Rhinestone Setter cooled and then changed the tip to a clean new 5 mm tip.   After waiting for it to heat up the 2 to 3 minutes I tried to pick up a gem, no luck!  I then flipped the gem over got a little of the glue on then end of my tip and then flicked it off with my weaving pin.  After that I had no problem at all picking up gems.

I am unsure if the problem I had is universal one?  However, it was such an easy fix for me and so frustrating when I couldn’t get it to work I felt like it needed to be shared.

Once I got the hang of the Rhinestone Setter I bedazzled my daughter socks and made her a little clip.  I found the hot fix gems worked great on grosgrain ribbon.

Stay tuned for my next post where I take all I have learned about the Darice® Rhinestone Setter and make an awesome Bridal piece.  Trust me all my little experimenting and tweaking of the Rhinestone Setter really pays off!

See what I mean?

Then I used an eyelet, and things just “popped”!

To my surprise, eyelets could be used for all sorts of projects: on scrapbook pages they become accents; on paper dolls they hold joints in various positions; and on collages they connect layered items.

Today, I’m going to walk you through the basics of using Consumer Crafts’  “Eyelet Starter Kit”.  You will need an Eyelet Starter Kit (Item 1027-95), a- 1/8″ Hole Punch (Item 2700-59), and a Mallet or Hammer.

Make a hole for the eyelet.

Flip your project over and insert eyelet shaft through the right side of your project and apply eyelet plate around the shaft.

Place the hammer post on top of the backside of the eyelet shaft, then gently hammer. The eyelet shaft will smash down to create a tiny lip that will secure the eyelet shaft, the eyelet plate, and your project together.

Flip your project over to view secured eyelet.

The key, I’ve discovered, is to make sure you place your project on a solid, firm structure before you hammer. If the structure is too cushiony or wobbly, you will end up disfiguring your eyelet, as seen below:

And if you aren’t too careful, the eyelet plate can shift and/or come loose, leaving you without a decorative backing, as shown below:

To see more projects using eyelets, check out the Fiesta Banner and Star Garland posts. Have fun!

ALSO NOTE- THERE IS A GIVEAWAY OPEN FOR A HOT-FIX CRYSTAL SETTER- CLICK HERE FOR THE LINK TO ENTER!

Disclosure:

Today I’m going to get you started by making a beaded “dangle” or drop, using a headpin. Let’s get going!

Materials:

• Bead w/ center drilled hole (These are nice, inexpensive glass beads to get you started)
• Head pins
• Round nose pliers
• Chain nose pliers
• Wire cutters

Instructions:

1. Thread the bead onto the head pin.
2. Grip the wire directly above the bead with the chain nose pliers.
   
3. Gently bend the wire over the edge of the chain nose pliers to make a 90° angle
   
4. Use the round nose pliers to grip the wire, right next to the bend in the wire.
   
5. Hold the pliers securely with one hand and use the other to firmly wrap the wire around the top of the round nose pliers.  Continue to wrap until it almost makes a complete loop.
   
6. Gently rotate your wire loop around the round nose pliers so that they are positioned at the very top of the almost-completed loop.
   
7. Hold the pliers securely and firmly wrap the wire around the bottom of the pliers until the loop is complete.  The wire should be perpendicular to the wire holding the bead.
   
8. Remove the round nose pliers, and firmly grip the completed loop with the chain nose pliers.
   
9. Use your fingers to tightly wrap the tail of the wire around the head pin, continuing until the wire is snug against the bead.  Go slowly on this step and make sure you have nice, evenly wrapped coils.
   
10. Use the wire cutters to clip any extra wire remaining, as close to the bead as possible.
11. Gently tuck the tip of the wire in, using the chain nose pliers.
    

If  your ready to try out a project with this technique, try Jenny’s Crystal Heart Earrings.

Happy Wrapping!

FTC Disclosure

CHOOSING THE RIGHT PAPER:

The standard weight of watercolor paper is 140 lb. Choose a lighter weight (90 lb) or heavier weight (300 lb +) depending on your personal preference and need as an artist. I am comfortable with the standard 140 lb weight. It’s affordable and works for my needs. Also make sure you use cold press paper. Any standard watercolor paper will be noted as cold press. Cold press paper has a medium rough texture that will allow your paint to soak into the page.

PREPARING YOUR PAPER AND MAKING BORDERS (GETTING STARTED):

Paper lighter than 140 lb will warp slightly if you do not tape it down or use a paper block (which is basically a solid stack of watercolor papers, gummed at the edges), so if you are using a loose-page watercolor pad, and concerned about it buckling, it is best to remove the page from the pad and use removable tape to adhere the page to a flat surface before you start painting. NOTE: The paper will still buckle while the paint is drying, but the more it dries, the more the paper will flatten out, if taped down.

Another technique to try with your removable tape is to use it as a masking tool, creating a protected hard edge (see example below).

MASKED EDGE - RESULT

However, you may not want to mask your borders in order to create a natural look (see example below). The natural border your background wash creates can give a lovely authentic charm to your painting. It all depends on your personal preference as an artist. In the example below I have also created a deckled edge on the paper, using the watercolor paper (which is less than 140 lb) from the pad included in the Royal All Media Set.

natural painted border (background) with deckled edge paper

HOW TO CREATE A SIMPLE DECKLED EDGE FOR YOUR PAPER:

• Use a flat metal ruler.
• Measure where you want your edge to be first, if particular (use a soft pencil to mark your paper, so it is easily erased later).
• Lay ruler down, along the edge you want.
• Press down firmly on the ruler with one hand as you tear the paper away with the other hand.

You could also just let loose completely and use your watercolor pad as a watercolor sketchbook. My grandfather did this. It’s a good way to start if you are a beginner. That way there is less stress on creating a masterpiece and more stress on experimenting and learning this new painting technique. If you get frustrated with a piece, just turn the page and start again.

If you have any questions about the prep needed for watercolor painting, just leave a comment on this post and we’ll be happy to help!

FTC Disclosure:

Before we start, let’s take a closer look at our crimping pliers (read a post about crimping pliers here.) You will notice that there are two indentations on the end – the one on the outside edge looks like an oval and the one on the inside edge looks like a semi-circle.  Your crimp bead (or tube) will fit right into these indentations – and crimping is as simple as squeezing the handles of the pliers!

Step 1:  Slide a single crimp bead (or tube) onto your wire.  Pass the wire through the clasp of your choice (or simply leave a loop of wire), and then pass the wire back through your crimp bead.

Step 1

Step 2:  Gently place your crimp bead in the semi-circle shaped indentation of the crimping pliers (inside edge).  Firmly squeeze the pliers’ handles together.  This will flatten your crimp bead, and at the same time put an indent into it.

Step 2

Step 3:  Take your flattened crimp bead and place it in the oval shaped indentation of the pliers (outside edge).  Be sure to line up your bead so that the indent faces out (see image).  Firmly squeeze the pliers’ handles together – this will neatly fold your crimp bead in half!

Step 3 (Pre-Crimp)

Step 3 (Post-Crimp)

Finished Product

Optional: If you would prefer a slightly flatter crimp to the rounded one you have –take a pair of flat-nose pliers and very gently squeeze the crimped bead to flatten it just a bit.

If it doesn’t look perfect on your first try – do not despair!  It takes a bit of practice to get the hang of this nifty tool.  If you are just learning, I recommend getting comfortable using larger crimp beads before trying anything delicate.

Happy Beading!

Use you newly-acquired skills an try making the Winter Wonderland Bracelet!